Thursday, October 21, 2010

For October 21

Next week, the Zen Center is in sesshin (a form of meditation retreat), so this is my last post for October. This marks the 5 year mark on this crazy cookie project - it was at the end of October 2005 that I received an email from Jotai in the office asking if anyone was willing to step forward and bring the cookies for the Thursday night tea and cookies. I volunteered and, being a bit self-important, decided to actually bake something from scratch that first week (brownies), rather than buy it at the store as we had done more or less all the time before then. That one time decision set the stage for what has come since then - five years of baking, almost every week, two recipes a week. This is really a crazy labor of love.

This week's cookies:

Pumpkin Cookies, from Martha Stewart's cookie-a-day site.
Brownies Cockaigne, from Joy of Cooking, All About Cookies

The pumpkin cookies are another reminder that it is October. Martha Stewart has a very cook web site that has a cookie recipe a day; it is very cook and seasonally oriented. Anyway, I was looking for an easy autumn recipe (busy week this week) and saw this and, given my love of pumpkin, decided to do a pumpkin recipe for the second week in a row. This makes a cakey pumpkin cookie which you then drizzle with melted bittersweet chocolate. The cookie is not that sweet, so the chocolate drizzle is definitely useful. There is a lot of pumpkin in these cookies, and they are quite low fat. I think they could use some additional spicing to give them a bit more flavor, and would definitely increase the spice accordingly if I make them again; pumpkin is, after all, a squash, and while it has a distinctive taste, the flavors we associate with pumpkin pie tend to be the cinnamon, ginger, and other spices more than the pumpkin. Here, I would pump up the spices a bit. But a nice cookie, with a lot of good stuff for you and not too much fat.

My friend Bob Gido Fisher, a professional pastry chef extraordinaire, gave me the Joy of Cooking All About Cookies cookbook for my birthday a few weeks ago. I have two different versions of the Joy of Cooking cookbook at home, but I never thing of going to them for cookie recipes. So it is great to get this book, which has a lot of illustrations, sidebars and other stuff the normal cookbook lacks, and this was my first recipe from it. In the Joy of Cooking books, if a recipe title includes the term "cockaigne" it means it is one of the authors' favorites. According to them, this brownie recipe has been in the Joy of Cooking since the 1st edition back in the 1930s. It is a good recipe, and makes a very middle-of-the-road brownie - not too fudgy, not too cakey. I made one variation on the recipe - when I was at the store looking through the chocolates for sale, I picked up a new item, Callebaut chocolate chips (they didn't call them "chocolate chips", of course, since that would be too pedestrian, but that is exactly what they are), and added a cup or so of them to the recipe. These chocolate chips are fantastic! The flavor is wonderful. Most chocolate chips are made using a lower quality chocolate, and you can taste it, but these are just incredibly smooth and flavorful. Anyway, so I added these along with some walnuts to the recipe, and the result is a very nice, fairly interesting, brownie. It is appropriate that, on the fifth anniversary of this venture, I should go back to its roots with a brownie recipe to celebrate.

Enjoy, and I'll see you in November!

For October 19 (an extra cookie event this week!)

This week, Zen Center hosted Rev. Nakano from Japan, who was a Specially Dispatched Teacher from the Sotoshu on a tour of various Zen centers in the United States. Anyway, due to his schedule, he came and gave a talk on Tuesday night, which we followed with tea and cookies. This was an event that called for repeats, to wit:

Whole Wheat Sables with Cacao Nibs, from Alice Medrich, Pure Dessert
Midnight Crackles, from Dorie Greenspan, Baking: From My Home To Yours

These are probably my two favorite cookbook authors, and they did not disappoint me. The sables are absolutely amazing, some of my favorite cookies ever. Along with the basic recipe, which is for plain, whole wheat sables, there are a number of variations, including this one that adds cacao nibs. I think that the nuttiness of the whole wheat flour and the elusive, earthy quality of the cacao nibs is a very good combination. Very straightforward to make, but so sophisticated a result! Highly recommended.

With the midnight crackles, they are a pretty simple chocolate variation cookie - there is a good amount of chocolate (between melted chocolate and cocoa powder) in the recipe, but it also has a number of spices to make it a bit more interesting than it otherwise appears to be. Dorie includes a variation, which I used, that has cinnamon, ground cloves, ginger, allspice and coriander (I wonder if she meant cardamom?). Oh, and salt. So it is an interesting cookie - unlike the sables, which emphasize a paring down of ingredients to highlight single notes, this is more a symphony, with a lot of different things going on, some in progression, others all at once. Not a world changing cookie (like the sables) but a very fun, kinda grown-up chocolate cookie.

For October 14 (also a little late)

I am a little behind on my blogging! The worst part is that my memory for what I am making starts to slip pretty quickly, so I do need to get my laptop by my bed and start doing these entries when I am just finished baking.

Last week was a double Martha week; happily, most of her recipes are available online:

Pumpkin Cookies with Maple Brown Butter Icing, from Martha Stewart Cookies
Hazelnut Cookies, from Martha Stewart Living (October 2010).

The pumpkin cookie is one of my favorite cookies. I have made it a few times before and every time I make it I am happy. The combination of the soft, cakey cookie with the brown butter icing is really good. The cookie is relatively straightforward to make. Although the recipe calls for piping the cookie dough (a very soft, batter-like consistency) out using a pastry bag, I just use a tablespoon-sized ice cream scoop, which makes them much less uniform and round, but keeps me from making a fool of myself with a pastry bag. The most challenging element of this recipe is the icing, since it calls for browning the butter, which can be an anxious process for those doing it for the first time. Having done it before a few times, it seemed like a breeze this time - it went much more quickly, was much less anxiety-inducing, and was all around straightforward. Anyway, I ended up replacing about 1/4 of the confectioner's sugar called for in the icing recipe with maple sugar to give some maple flavor to the icing. These are a great cookie, and they are fall icons in my book. I highly recommend them!

The second recipe was out of the current Martha Stewart Living magazine. I have to admit, not my favorite, although many people seemed to like it. Very few ingredients, so it really focuses on the hazelnut. In making the dough, I found it didn't hold together as I had thought it would - it was a very loose, falling-apart dough, so it requires quite a lot of work to form individual 1" balls and then to press them down to flatten them and not have them just fall apart. I am happy to have made it, and ready to move on.

Wednesday, October 13, 2010

For October 7 (a little late)

Last week we went to NY and CT for a long weekend to celebrate my sister's birthday. But before going, I baked and left some treats behind for the Zen Center! Here were last week's items:

Toasted Walnut Cookies, from Deborah Madison, Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone
Pecan-Maple Shortbread

both from Melissa Clark - Food Writer

I am a big fan of Deborah Madison's, since she was the founding chef of Greens in San Francisco. I took a cooking and writing class with her a few years ago at Tassajara; it was a lot of fun and she is a wonderful woman. She is not a baker by nature, and her cookbooks tend to rely mostly on desserts that are fruit-based. As amazing a cookbook as it is, I don't think I had ever even looked through Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone for cookie recipes, since I don't associate her with such things. But through the seamless web of the Web, I ended up last week on the blog of Melissa Clark, a food writer who contributes a lot to the New York Times, and I saw these two recipes there, one being the walnut cookie recipe of Deborah's, the other being a shortbread with lots and lots of variations. I decided to make them both.

The walnut cookie recipe is, well, good but not great. (It kinda confirmed what I had thought.) It is very straightforward to make, and the flavor is good. I suspect that the cookies would have been better had I cooked them a minute or two more; as it is, they are slightly toothy, when I think that a sandy/crisp texture would have worked better. But they are a nice, basic variation on the butter cookie with nuts.

The shortbread recipe is a "start with this and then add that or that or even that" kind of affair. So I ended up adding pulverized roasted pecans and maple sugar (and a wee bit of pure maple flavoring to kick it up a notch) to announce that autumn has arrived. While I know that maple is usually associated with walnuts, I am very fond of it with pecans, and having already made a walnut cookie I wanted to mix it up. Along the way, I had browsed the recipe for maple shortbread in the King Arthur Flour Cookie Companion and made a few adaptations to my recipe based on their ideas (basically sprinkling some maple sugar on the bottom of the pan before pressing in the shortbread, and then sprinkling some on top of the shortbread, to give it a bit of extra crunch and flavor), so this is something of an amalgam recipe. In the end, Andrew raved about it, and I thought it was pretty good, too; I brought some with me to Connecticut and shared with family, and they all liked it, as well. So I recommend it. And some of the variations on Melissa Clark's web site look very intereating - particularly adding rosemary to it!

This week, I am planning on one of my favorite recipes, which is a hallmark of autumn - but the forecast is for weather in the 80s all week, so there is gonna be some cognitive dissonance going on...

Enjoy!