Thursday, February 3, 2011

For February 3, 2011

OK, back in the saddle again...
I am trying to juggle a new (and LASTING) commitment to exercise and being more healthy with the job thing, the Zen thing, the baking thing...oof. I think most of the weight I put on in the last 5 years can be attributed to (1) slowing metabolism once I hit 40 and (2) baking cookies and not giving all of them away. It is basic Zen training that you have to give everything away, and now I am going to be giving away all my cookies and all my extra pounds. Yay! On my personal workout page through my gym, it asks me to put down a mantra - I want to XXXX. Suggestions welcome - be a buff baker? I welcome input!

OK, enough rambling. On to this week's recipes from one of my new cookbooks, from my wonderful sister, Phyllis, who is experiencing a lot of snow right now.

Less-Is-More Overnight Brownies
Hazelnut Molasses Cookies

both from Alice Medrich's newest book, Chewy Gooey Crispy Crunchy Melt-in-Your-Mouth Cookies

The brownie recipe is an experiment. It is a reduced fat (not low fat) brownie. It uses around half the butter of a "normal" brownie recipe, and also uses 1 egg and 2 egg whites, whereas many recipes would use 3 or 4 regular eggs. There are a couple of techniques to compensate - first, you really heat the butter in a pan to sizzling and then dump in the cocoa powder, which helps to bring out an intense chocolate flavor. Second, you let it sit overnight (or, in my case, 24 hours), which allows the cocoa powder and flour to really absorb the butterfat fully. (This is a new hot technique, particularly with chocolate chip cookies - flour does not hydrolyze very easily, so the thing now is to let the batter sit at least 24 hours (in the refrigerator) to let the flour absorb the butterfat. It gives a richer flavor when it has hydrolyzed properly.) Anyway, we tested them last night - Andrew was not in love with them, and they are definitely not the best brownies I have ever had, but I thought that by reducing the butter it let the flavor of the cocoa come through more - I definitely got a more fruity, interesting flavor profile than I do with some of the brownies I have made that look like they are sweating butter while they are baking.

The second recipe was also interesting. I am always interested in recipes where one of the key ingredients doesn't even show up in the title of the recipe. My almond pine nut tart is one of them - it fails to even mention the raspberry layer, which is a key element. This is another. The hazelnuts are interesting, yes, but the key to this recipe is that it includes orange zest. Now, I am not a creative baker, I just take directions pretty well, so until I read and then tasted this cookie dough, I would not have told you that molasses and orange zest are a natural flavor combination, but wow is it true. In this recipe, it is almost impossible to see where the molasses flavor ends and the orange zest takes over - it is like a seamless transition. These are a simple cookie (I like simple cookies), and there are a few elements I would do differently in the preparation, but the key ingredients here are finely chopped hazelnuts, molasses and orange zest. The hazelnuts are a fairly subtle flavor element, but give the cookie an interesting visual appeal, since the cookies darken quite a bit while cooking, but the chopped hazelnuts do not, leaving a flecked appearance to the cookie. These are not your grandmother's molasses cookie at all - indeed, they are in a different category altogether, not better or worse, but the fact that they share a core ingredient does not mean they end up in the same place (well, except in your belly).

There are a lot of fun recipes in this book, and then in the others that I got from Phyl or that I broke down and got for myself. This morning I was at the gym at 8 a.m. for 50 minutes of cardio, and so I think I will be OK eating one - well, ONE of each - cookie tonight.

Tuesday, February 1, 2011

Welcome February!

January is gone, and with it the bare-bones practice month at ZCLA, which was marked by no talks and no cookies on Thursday nights. It has been more than 6 weeks since I pulled out the cookie sheets and baked. (Well, there was a little baking here and there, but not for a crowd.)

Although certain people (ahem) did not help out by buying me ANYTHING from my Amazon wish list - which was basically 90% filled with cookbooks - my wonderful sister bought me two that I was looking forward to, and I decided to take matters into my own hands (there being 9 months until my birthday, so little chance that anything other than self-help would result in the landing of any smiling amazon.com boxes on my desk from other forces) and add a few more cookbooks to our already groaning shelves. One of those new cookbooks is the newest cookbook from Alice Medrich, whose books I adore (as a quick perusal of the blog will reveal). Her new cookbook is nothing but cookies - be still my heart!!! The new book is called Chewy Gooey Crispy Crunchy Melt-in-Your-Mouth Cookies. It looks very promising, and the first cookies of the year will be coming from it this week. It is brimming with good-looking ideas, and between that and the other cookbooks I got, we can look forward to some new and fun recipes in 2011!

Of course, Andrew and I also joined a gym in January, and so I will be doing less eating (of cookies, at least) and more exercising, so now I have to make sure the cookies are amazingly good since I can only have one (0r two). Can I both bake cookies weekly AND get healthy? I hope so!

A report on this week's cookies tomorrow....

Thursday, December 16, 2010

For December 16

Hi everyone, it has been a long time since my last post - because it has been a long time since the last Thursday night cookies. Between that whole Thanksgiving thing, and then the Center had Rohatsu sesshin, which ran for 9 days and spanned 2 Thursdays, this is my first baking since mid-November. Well, my first cookie baking. I have been busy with a few other things around Thanksgiving and all, but I have not blogged about them yet.

And after this, the next cookies for a Thursday night are not, at least "officially," until February - next week there is no talk/tea/cookies, and the following week we are in sesshin. In January, the Center observes a bare-bones month, with no talk/tea/cookies, so we only resume again in February. Wow. And by then, there will be lots of change.

OK, well this week, we are turning to two repeats, for reasons explained below. The recipes:

Chocolate Mint Squares, from The King Arthur Flour Baking Companion
Oatmeal-Currant Cookies, from Alice Waters, The Art of Simple Food

The chocolate mint squares have long been a staple. A number of people simply love them - as in LOVE them - Andrew Bodhi-Heart being one of those people. They are pretty easy to make - the base is a variant on a brownie, with walnuts and peppermint extract. A confectioners' sugar and peppermint icing goes on top, and then a drizzle of chocolate. Not subtle, not particularly sophisticated, but the chocolate-mint combination is a definite flavor of the season!

The oatmeal-currant cookies are for Roshi (I hope she attends). Oatmeal raisin cookies are her favorite. Since she is leaving on January 1 for a one-year sabbatical, this is the last cookie event before her departure, and I wanted to make one of her favorite cookies as a nice send-off. I made this recipe back in March, but she was not around at the time. This is a recipe from Alice Waters' most recent book. It is interesting because you grind the oats, almost to a flour, rather than using them whole. It leads to a more delicate cookie. I also use a really nice dark brown sugar, which gives a very deep flavor. The only issue with them is that they are a bit delicate and fall apart easily. Hopefully these will hold together better.

Thursday, November 18, 2010

For November 18

Hermit Bars
Chocolate Gingerbread Squares

both from Martha Stewart

A couple of weeks ago, I spotted a new, seasonal magazine in the grocery store - a Holiday Cookies magazine from Martha Stewart. While there was an older magazine of the same type - which eventually was turned into the Martha Stewart Cookies cookbook - this had lots of new recipes that I had not seen before. So I happily scooped it up, and this week we break it in with two recipes. (I now see that both are older recipes available on her Web site, but the magazine is very pretty and has all the great design elements that her print materials feature). There are a lot of other promising recipes in the magazine, so this is, I am sure, only the beginning....

Anyway, this also seems to be the week for molasses and ginger, since both recipes feature these ingredients. These ingredients are official harbingers of winter and holidays. Here, they are used in rather interesting ways.

The hermit bars are a variation on the usual hermits. Hermits are an old New England recipe that rely on a variety of spices (ginger, cinnamon, cloves), molasses, brown sugar and raisins. They are often made in a pan and then sliced into squares. Here, the technique is closer to that of biscotti, except they are only baked once, not twice. After the dough is made, you cool it a little to make it easier to handle, then it is formed into logs and baked. Once it is cooked, the logs are sliced. The resulting "bar" looks just like a biscotti, but is quite a bit softer. There is nothing elegant about this cookie, but it is very flavorful.

The chocolate gingerbread is another variation on a familiar favorite. I love gingerbread (at least if it is made well). Here, the gingerbread had cocoa powder and chocolate chips added, and the pan is dusted with cocoa powder. The chocoate-ginger combination is not a usual pairing, so it pulls your attention. It screams for whipped cream (or to be dunked in milk). A fun variation.

Next week is Thanksgiving, an d then the Center begins Rohatsu sesshin, which will extend over two Thursdays, so there are no formal cookie obligations again until December 16, a month from now. Until then, take good care!

For November 11

This week, my niece and her daughter were arriving on Thursday, and I was really busy at work, so it was time to fall back on old friends. Well, more or less.

Chocolate Chip Cookies, from The Secrets of Baking by Sherry Yard
Honey Nut Brownies, from Baking: From My Home to Yours, by Dorie Greenspan

Sherry Yard's chocolate chip cookies are a welcome standby. One of the things I like about them is that you can make the dough and refrigerate it overnight, and then make the cookies. Actually, it seems that 24 hours of refrigeration is becoming the new favored technique for chocolate chip cookies, as it allows the fat in the butter to be absorbed better by the flour and leads to a better cookie. When you make the recipe in this way, you form it into logs and refrigerate it. But the dough never gets very solid, and you can't really just slice it and bake it; it is a bit of a messy process to form the cookies, but they are so good that it is worth the effort!

Although I made these brownies before, it was a long time ago. There is enough chocolate in them to justify the "brownie" in the name, but the overwhelming flavor comes from the honey - almost all of the sweetener is honey, and the recipe calls for using something more interesting than the normal clover honey. (I used sage.) The chocolate, honey, pecan combination (probably not in that order) is interesting. Honey is not my favorite flavor, so these are not my favorite brownies, but they are certainly an interesting and unusual variation on a favorite that can often become a bit too boring.

For November 4 (catching up)

Spicy Cherry Chocolate Brownies, from the LA Times
Mapledoodles, from the King Arthur Flour Recipe Site

Recently, the Los Angeles Times did an article on interesting cookie flavors involving combinations of sugar and spice. One of the recipes was for the spicy cherry chocolate brownies that I made this week. The recipe calls for a teaspoon of cayenne pepper. And the "spicy" in the name is not a case of overpromising - these are quite spicy. It is an interesting recipe, because the chocolate flavor is quite strong when you first bite into the brownie, but then over time it gives way to the spiciness of the cayenne. The dried sweet cherries add an extra, unusual flavor to the combination. This was an interesting and different take on brownies. While you have to like spicy food to enjoy it, it is very good!

Mapledoodles - well, the name says it all. Snickerdoodles, but with maple. Oh, autumn! This recipe uses a mixture of plain and maple sugar in making the dough, and then when you form balls of dough you roll them in a mixture of regular and maple sugar as well. Although the recipe calls for an icing in addition, I omitted it, and these were really nice - good maple flavor, but not overwhelming, and a nice texture as well. Recommended!

Thursday, October 21, 2010

For October 21

Next week, the Zen Center is in sesshin (a form of meditation retreat), so this is my last post for October. This marks the 5 year mark on this crazy cookie project - it was at the end of October 2005 that I received an email from Jotai in the office asking if anyone was willing to step forward and bring the cookies for the Thursday night tea and cookies. I volunteered and, being a bit self-important, decided to actually bake something from scratch that first week (brownies), rather than buy it at the store as we had done more or less all the time before then. That one time decision set the stage for what has come since then - five years of baking, almost every week, two recipes a week. This is really a crazy labor of love.

This week's cookies:

Pumpkin Cookies, from Martha Stewart's cookie-a-day site.
Brownies Cockaigne, from Joy of Cooking, All About Cookies

The pumpkin cookies are another reminder that it is October. Martha Stewart has a very cook web site that has a cookie recipe a day; it is very cook and seasonally oriented. Anyway, I was looking for an easy autumn recipe (busy week this week) and saw this and, given my love of pumpkin, decided to do a pumpkin recipe for the second week in a row. This makes a cakey pumpkin cookie which you then drizzle with melted bittersweet chocolate. The cookie is not that sweet, so the chocolate drizzle is definitely useful. There is a lot of pumpkin in these cookies, and they are quite low fat. I think they could use some additional spicing to give them a bit more flavor, and would definitely increase the spice accordingly if I make them again; pumpkin is, after all, a squash, and while it has a distinctive taste, the flavors we associate with pumpkin pie tend to be the cinnamon, ginger, and other spices more than the pumpkin. Here, I would pump up the spices a bit. But a nice cookie, with a lot of good stuff for you and not too much fat.

My friend Bob Gido Fisher, a professional pastry chef extraordinaire, gave me the Joy of Cooking All About Cookies cookbook for my birthday a few weeks ago. I have two different versions of the Joy of Cooking cookbook at home, but I never thing of going to them for cookie recipes. So it is great to get this book, which has a lot of illustrations, sidebars and other stuff the normal cookbook lacks, and this was my first recipe from it. In the Joy of Cooking books, if a recipe title includes the term "cockaigne" it means it is one of the authors' favorites. According to them, this brownie recipe has been in the Joy of Cooking since the 1st edition back in the 1930s. It is a good recipe, and makes a very middle-of-the-road brownie - not too fudgy, not too cakey. I made one variation on the recipe - when I was at the store looking through the chocolates for sale, I picked up a new item, Callebaut chocolate chips (they didn't call them "chocolate chips", of course, since that would be too pedestrian, but that is exactly what they are), and added a cup or so of them to the recipe. These chocolate chips are fantastic! The flavor is wonderful. Most chocolate chips are made using a lower quality chocolate, and you can taste it, but these are just incredibly smooth and flavorful. Anyway, so I added these along with some walnuts to the recipe, and the result is a very nice, fairly interesting, brownie. It is appropriate that, on the fifth anniversary of this venture, I should go back to its roots with a brownie recipe to celebrate.

Enjoy, and I'll see you in November!

For October 19 (an extra cookie event this week!)

This week, Zen Center hosted Rev. Nakano from Japan, who was a Specially Dispatched Teacher from the Sotoshu on a tour of various Zen centers in the United States. Anyway, due to his schedule, he came and gave a talk on Tuesday night, which we followed with tea and cookies. This was an event that called for repeats, to wit:

Whole Wheat Sables with Cacao Nibs, from Alice Medrich, Pure Dessert
Midnight Crackles, from Dorie Greenspan, Baking: From My Home To Yours

These are probably my two favorite cookbook authors, and they did not disappoint me. The sables are absolutely amazing, some of my favorite cookies ever. Along with the basic recipe, which is for plain, whole wheat sables, there are a number of variations, including this one that adds cacao nibs. I think that the nuttiness of the whole wheat flour and the elusive, earthy quality of the cacao nibs is a very good combination. Very straightforward to make, but so sophisticated a result! Highly recommended.

With the midnight crackles, they are a pretty simple chocolate variation cookie - there is a good amount of chocolate (between melted chocolate and cocoa powder) in the recipe, but it also has a number of spices to make it a bit more interesting than it otherwise appears to be. Dorie includes a variation, which I used, that has cinnamon, ground cloves, ginger, allspice and coriander (I wonder if she meant cardamom?). Oh, and salt. So it is an interesting cookie - unlike the sables, which emphasize a paring down of ingredients to highlight single notes, this is more a symphony, with a lot of different things going on, some in progression, others all at once. Not a world changing cookie (like the sables) but a very fun, kinda grown-up chocolate cookie.

For October 14 (also a little late)

I am a little behind on my blogging! The worst part is that my memory for what I am making starts to slip pretty quickly, so I do need to get my laptop by my bed and start doing these entries when I am just finished baking.

Last week was a double Martha week; happily, most of her recipes are available online:

Pumpkin Cookies with Maple Brown Butter Icing, from Martha Stewart Cookies
Hazelnut Cookies, from Martha Stewart Living (October 2010).

The pumpkin cookie is one of my favorite cookies. I have made it a few times before and every time I make it I am happy. The combination of the soft, cakey cookie with the brown butter icing is really good. The cookie is relatively straightforward to make. Although the recipe calls for piping the cookie dough (a very soft, batter-like consistency) out using a pastry bag, I just use a tablespoon-sized ice cream scoop, which makes them much less uniform and round, but keeps me from making a fool of myself with a pastry bag. The most challenging element of this recipe is the icing, since it calls for browning the butter, which can be an anxious process for those doing it for the first time. Having done it before a few times, it seemed like a breeze this time - it went much more quickly, was much less anxiety-inducing, and was all around straightforward. Anyway, I ended up replacing about 1/4 of the confectioner's sugar called for in the icing recipe with maple sugar to give some maple flavor to the icing. These are a great cookie, and they are fall icons in my book. I highly recommend them!

The second recipe was out of the current Martha Stewart Living magazine. I have to admit, not my favorite, although many people seemed to like it. Very few ingredients, so it really focuses on the hazelnut. In making the dough, I found it didn't hold together as I had thought it would - it was a very loose, falling-apart dough, so it requires quite a lot of work to form individual 1" balls and then to press them down to flatten them and not have them just fall apart. I am happy to have made it, and ready to move on.

Wednesday, October 13, 2010

For October 7 (a little late)

Last week we went to NY and CT for a long weekend to celebrate my sister's birthday. But before going, I baked and left some treats behind for the Zen Center! Here were last week's items:

Toasted Walnut Cookies, from Deborah Madison, Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone
Pecan-Maple Shortbread

both from Melissa Clark - Food Writer

I am a big fan of Deborah Madison's, since she was the founding chef of Greens in San Francisco. I took a cooking and writing class with her a few years ago at Tassajara; it was a lot of fun and she is a wonderful woman. She is not a baker by nature, and her cookbooks tend to rely mostly on desserts that are fruit-based. As amazing a cookbook as it is, I don't think I had ever even looked through Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone for cookie recipes, since I don't associate her with such things. But through the seamless web of the Web, I ended up last week on the blog of Melissa Clark, a food writer who contributes a lot to the New York Times, and I saw these two recipes there, one being the walnut cookie recipe of Deborah's, the other being a shortbread with lots and lots of variations. I decided to make them both.

The walnut cookie recipe is, well, good but not great. (It kinda confirmed what I had thought.) It is very straightforward to make, and the flavor is good. I suspect that the cookies would have been better had I cooked them a minute or two more; as it is, they are slightly toothy, when I think that a sandy/crisp texture would have worked better. But they are a nice, basic variation on the butter cookie with nuts.

The shortbread recipe is a "start with this and then add that or that or even that" kind of affair. So I ended up adding pulverized roasted pecans and maple sugar (and a wee bit of pure maple flavoring to kick it up a notch) to announce that autumn has arrived. While I know that maple is usually associated with walnuts, I am very fond of it with pecans, and having already made a walnut cookie I wanted to mix it up. Along the way, I had browsed the recipe for maple shortbread in the King Arthur Flour Cookie Companion and made a few adaptations to my recipe based on their ideas (basically sprinkling some maple sugar on the bottom of the pan before pressing in the shortbread, and then sprinkling some on top of the shortbread, to give it a bit of extra crunch and flavor), so this is something of an amalgam recipe. In the end, Andrew raved about it, and I thought it was pretty good, too; I brought some with me to Connecticut and shared with family, and they all liked it, as well. So I recommend it. And some of the variations on Melissa Clark's web site look very intereating - particularly adding rosemary to it!

This week, I am planning on one of my favorite recipes, which is a hallmark of autumn - but the forecast is for weather in the 80s all week, so there is gonna be some cognitive dissonance going on...

Enjoy!